7 chocolatiers to spark the wonder of ‘Wonka’ — and evoke Chicago’s sweet origins

The recent “Wonka” movie acts as the whimsical prequel for “Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory,” chronicling the life of the chocolatier extraordinaire before golden tickets and everlasting gobstoppers. We all love an origin story, and in a city like Chicago, we have the history to fuel them — including those concerning chocolate.

“Chicago was the candy capital of America for a long time — for several decades, about a third of the candy manufactured in the United States was either made or invented in Chicago,” says Leslie Goddard, author of “Chicago’s Sweet Candy History.” Credit the city’s reputation as a railway hub and the influx of immigration for the beginnings of brands like Brach’s, Curtiss, Tootsie Rolls, Wrigley, Fannie May and Mars (along with Blommer Chocolate Co., still operating today). And when it comes to chocolate production specifically, Goddard notes that the World’s Columbian Exposition of 1893 in Chicago played a key role.

“It was here that Milton Hershey first saw some chocolate-making equipment from a company in Germany, bought it and shipped it to Pennsylvania, making the country’s first milk chocolate bar seven years later,” says Goddard, who notes that chocolate before that time was consumed most commonly as a drink. “There is a big Chicago link to the first chocolate candy bar in the United States.” From there, several Chicago-brand bars followed, including O’Henry in 1920, Milky Way in 1923, Snickers in 1930 and 3 Musketeers in 1932.

“When I first saw ‘Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory,’ I remember thinking how exciting it would be to visit a chocolate factory and see new candies being made — and it was absolutely what was happening here in Chicago back in the ’20s and ’30s with these producers coming up with these concepts and ideas,” notes Goddard.

That spirit of innovation is alive and well today throughout Chicago, where chocolatiers are coming up with striking new creations on the regular. From a family-run sweets haven on the South Side to a Belgian-inspired favorite in Evanston, here are seven spots with chocolate capable of evoking Chicago’s bygone candy era.

Belgian Chocolatier Piron

After learning his craft in Antwerp, Belgium, Bob Piron brought his chocolate trade to the Chicago area, opening a shop in Evanston nearly 40 years ago. There, he and a team of seasoned chocolatiers have gained a loyal following for their Belgian chocolates using locally and regionally inspired ingredients, dairy and seasonal fruits. Try their award-winning truffles, Grand Marnier chocolate buttercreams or passion fruit ganache (and for Valentine’s Day, look for their chocolate-filled velvet heart gift boxes). 509-A Main St., Evanston; 847-864-5504; belgchocpiron.com

Chocolat Uzma

At this minority- and women-owned business, Uzma Sharif offers a colorful medley of bonbons drawing on her Pakistani upbringing and culinary arts training. The collection here calls for ingredients like ginger, red chile, coriander and cardamom (many of which the team sources from fellow female-owned businesses). Try them in flavors like the Zeera (honey cumin), Kala Namak (black salt caramel) and Zara (raspberry rose). While on-site, don’t miss their Belgian chocolate chip cookies — baked fresh throughout the day. 917 W. 18th St., Suite 101; 312-900-9170; chocolat-uzma.com

Good Ambler

This popular bakery-cafe might be well known for its pastries and cakes, but don’t overlook its handcrafted bonbons — chef Meg Galus oversees a collection of 16 to 20 playful variations. Try a sampling of them, including crowd-pleasers like the toasted vanilla bean or peanut butter “meltaway,” alongside bolder pieces like the raspberry Thai long peppercorn or lime thyme. Valentine’s Day additions round out the chocolate selection this month, featuring options like red and pink hot chocolate bombs and raspberry-white chocolate heart lollipops. 216 N. Peoria St., 312-872-7165; goodambler.com

Katherine Anne Confections

Katherine Duncan grew up making caramels and truffles on her family’s Wisconsin farm before bringing those talents to Chicago with two storefronts (in Logan Square and Irving Park). A dedication to fair trade and local ingredients reign supreme for the truffle lineup, which includes flavors like strawberry cheesecake, French 75 and German chocolate cake. Visit the Irving Park location for some tastes and a tour (it might lack Wonka’s chocolate waterfall, but an order of the store’s Mexican drinking chocolate is a close second). 3653 W. Irving Park Road, 773-245-3948; 2745 W. Armitage Ave., 773-245-3435; katherine-anne.com

Sweet Designs by Kathy

The COVID lockdown offered Kathy Bullard time to practice her chocolate craft, a journey she began with her studies at the French Pastry School. In October 2020 she debuted Sweet Creations by Kathy, a line of confections and bonbons made from fair trade, local ingredients that bear eye-catching, intricate designs. She often turns to nature to inspire those creations (like images from the Webb Telescope or her “Geodes” collection), making them easy to spot at the Chicago Artisan Market or One of a Kind, the markets she often attends. Ordering is also available online for nationwide shipping and local pick-up. 324 N. Leavitt St.; 773-340-2127; departmentofsugar.com

Sweet Freaks

Chocolate-covered strawberries at Sweet Freaks in Beverly, April 17, 2023. (E. Jason Wambsgans/Chicago Tribune)

Nellie Murphy and her parents spent years hosting chocolate-making parties at home before they decided to open this Beverly shop, which recently celebrated 10 years. Taking her father’s recipes, customer requests and locally sourced Blommer chocolate, Murphy continues to offer an array of favorites, including Jakes (the shop’s turtle variant), Twisted Caramel (milk chocolate, salted pretzel and caramel bite-size pieces) and Cherry Bites (dark chocolate-covered soft licorice). 9927 S. Wood St.; 773-610-6320; sweetfreakschicago.com

Veruca Chocolates

Named for “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory” character Veruca Salt, this shop strives to deliver only the best handmade filled bonbons, salted caramels and chocolate bars. Check out its Chicago line, comprising four bonbons in flavors like beer (in honor of Goose Island) mint (an ode to the Wrigley Co.) and coffee (crediting Metropolis). Order via the store’s website for local pickup or nationwide shipping. 135 N. Kedzie Ave.; 312-624-8414; verucachocolates.com

Nicole Schnitzler is a freelance writer.

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