When it comes to transplanting shrubs or small trees, the first rule is: Plan first, so you only have to do it once.
“Plants can’t stand to be moved repeatedly,” said Sharon Yiesla, plant knowledge specialist in the Plant Clinic at The Morton Arboretum in Lisle. “Transplanting is a stressful, shocking process for them.”
You can transplant shrubs in spring once the soil has thawed, but don’t rush into it. “Think it through so you can be sure you get it right the first time,” she said. “You’ll want to give that plant at least a couple of years to recover and become established in the new site.”
Ask yourself these questions:
Do you know what kind of plant it is? “Identify the species of a shrub before you decide to move it,” Yiesla said. “That will help you understand what it needs and whether you have a better site for it.” The Plant Clinic (mortonarb.org/plant-clinic) can help with identifying garden shrubs. Is the shrub healthy enough to be transplanted? A plant that is struggling is not likely to survive being transplanted. On the other hand, a plant that is basically healthy but just isn’t blooming may be in too much shade and needs a sunnier site. “It all goes back to identifying the shrub and figuring out what that species needs,” she said.
Do you have another site that will suit the plant? Research the species and learn its requirements, such as how much sun it requires and what kind of soil it can tolerate. Consider whether the new site you are considering can meet those needs.
Is the plant appropriate for the site? For example, be sure the shrub is not too large for the space you have available. If there’s any kind of mismatch — say, if the new site is in full sun and the shrub prefers shade, or if you’d really like a shrub that flowers more — transplanting may not be the best option. “You may be better off in the long run spending the money for a different, more suitable plant,” Yiesla said.
Are you ready to transplant? Water the shrub the day before so it is at its best on transplanting day. Sharpen the shovel so it will cut roots and not tear them. Purchase mulch. Have a tarp for carrying the shrub to its new site.
Once you’re ready, first dig a wide, shallow hole in the new location. Then dig up the shrub: Use the sharp shovel to slice the soil all around it in a wide circle, so you will be able to keep as much soil as possible around the roots. Finally, dig below the shrub to free it. Place the shrub on the tarp to keep the roots together as you carry it to the new hole.
Make sure the shrub does not sit too deep in the new hole. “The base where the stems sprout should be just above soil level,” Yiesla said. “Planting a shrub too deep can cause all sorts of problems.”
Backfill the hole with the soil you removed and tamp the soil gently around the roots. Spread a layer of mulch 2 to 3 inches deep over the shrub’s roots, keeping it clear of the base of the shrub. “Mulch should never touch the bark,” she said.
Water the shrub deeply, and plan to continue watering often enough for at least two years to keep the soil moist.
“When you transplant a shrub, you cut off most of its small roots,” Yiesla said. “Those are the roots it needs to collect water and nutrients. The plant will need time to regrow those roots and get over the shock of transplanting, so plan to baby it for a good long while.”
For tree and plant advice, contact the Plant Clinic at The Morton Arboretum (630-719-2424, mortonarb.org/plant-clinic, or plantclinic@mortonarb.org). Beth Botts is a staff writer at the Arboretum.
