Chef Paul Virant has had a special place in the Western Springs culinary world for about 20 years, first with his 19-year run with Vie Restaurant and more recently with the opening earlier this year of Petite Vie.
And on Nov. 11, Virant is using Petite Vie to host An Homage to Everest: A Tribute to Chef Jean Joho. The sold-out evening is billed as “a love-letter to Everest,” featuring Joho himself, along with a lineup of chefs who have worked at Everest, a popular Chicago restaurant that opened in 1986 and closed at the end of 2022.
Chefs John Hogan, Thierry Tritsch, Mike Sheerin, Pat Sheerin, Josh Johnson, Joel Reno, Joung Sohn, Michael Gorman, Michael Howell, and sommelier Alpana Singh all are expected to be in attendance to pay tribute to Joho and Everest.
Virant, who worked with Joho at Everest from 1999 to 2001, said the idea for this tribute began last summer while he and his wife were dining with fellow Everest alum Sheerin and Sheerin’s wife at Mira at the St. Regis Hotel in Chicago.
“Chef Joho was working that night, and we just had a really great experience,” Virant said. “The idea started there and Chef Joho was all-in, very engaged. Everest was known for their elaborate tasting menu, so that definitely served as inspiration. We wanted an outstanding, multi-course meal with incredible wines.”
Being able to get the all-star lineup of chefs who have worked at Everest was “the most important thing,” Virant said.
“Every one of these chefs has an incredible pedigree, and they are doing tremendous things,” he said. “In our own ways, we all contributed to the success of Everest. Some of them I worked with, some I did not, but these are my peers – people I know and respect.”
And Virant has the ultimate respect for Joho.
“He had the extraordinary ability to really pay attention to all of the details, from the big stuff to the most minute details,” Virant said.
“His attention to detail inspires me. It can be demanding, but it just shows how much he cares – about the menu, the experience, and the people who are executing his dream.”
Virant said he reconnected with Joho and other Everest alumni in 2017 when Everest turned 30 years old and celebrated by hosting alumni nights.
“It allowed me to really have a deeper appreciation for him and what he’d accomplished in our industry,” Virant said. “He demanded excellence and certainly delivered excellence.”
Plus, the time seemed right.
“When I think about sitting down for a substantial, multi-course meal, I just think fall/winter is the best time,” Virant said. “Nov. 11 worked for everyone, so that’s where we landed.”
Virant said Joho was very involved in deciding on the menu for the tribute meal.
“He wanted to have some of his signature dishes: the Salmon Soufflé, the Lobster Gewürztraminer, the Duck, the Crepinettes,” Virant said. “These are all iconic dishes that were on the menu at Everest at some point or another. Every aspect of our menu was inspired by dishes we’d done at Everest.”
The other chefs who will be attending the tribute are glad to be a part of it.
“We all got very excited with the idea,” Tritsch said. “I hope it will bring back great and fun memories!
Sheerin said it means a lot to him to attend the event.
“It’s been almost 30 years since I first stepped into the kitchen at Everest as a college kid,” he said. “To see everyone’s evolution and still be fortunate enough to have a relationship with (Joho) and my colleagues further solidifies my love of this industry.”
Joho, the guest of honor, said it’s a true honor to see so many people with whom he has mentored and worked over the years come together to create the “beautiful meal” for the event.
“Watching them bring their own vision to life reminds me of how fortunate I’ve been to be part of such a vibrant culinary scene, especially at Everest for 35 years,” Joho said. (It) isn’t just a celebration of my journey, but of theirs as well, and I am profoundly grateful to have played a small part in their growth. Seeing them carry forward our shared passion is the most meaningful recognition I could ask for.”
Chuck Fieldman is a freelance reporter for Pioneer Press.
