When Roslyn Spence decided to attend the Democratic National Convention, she knew she wanted to wear something special.
The 61-year-old from Los Angeles commissioned a design from an artist on Instagram (@teighlormadeco), choosing a blue blazer with white stars on the lapels. On the back, she included phrases that connect her with Vice President Kamala Harris’ presidential campaign.
There’s “You Know,” part of a chant at Howard University, where both Spence and Harris attended and joined Alpha Kappa Alpha, the country’s oldest Black sorority. In a large, cursive font, there’s also the popular campaign slogan, “We’re not going back.”
“I wanted that message on there because we can’t go back,” Spence said this week, also wearing a red, white and blue necklace. “I know what my parents had to do to make it with my brothers and sisters — I’m the youngest of six kids — and … it’s important that we not go backward.”
As the cameras panned through the audience at the convention in the United Center, the names of Harris and her vice presidential candidate, Minnesota Gov. Tim Walz, were emblazoned on shirts, hats and buttons. And, of course, there was lots of blue — but some thought extra long and hard about their fashion choices. Truly, “clothing matters” according to one political science professor, who said it’s a tool politicians use to gain support from potential voters and to communicate with their supporters.
“One of the things that parties do is provide voters with a sense of community and belonging, that they have a team and they’re part of it — that by supporting these candidates, they’re helping their team on the field,” said University of Chicago assistant professor Ruth Bloch Rubin. “Having gear, as with any other kind of fandom, is important.”
Judelah Sherr, a 70-year-old convention volunteer, chose a beige T-shirt with Kamala’s name spelled out as “,la” that she bought from Studio 144 Boutique in Oak Park. Sherr said she signed up to volunteer about a month ago because of “passion” and “fear,” adding that she’s most concerned about protecting women’s reproductive rights and voting rights this election.
In between checking credentials she’s gotten to watch numerous speeches, including President Joe Biden and Rep. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, adding that Harris has brought a sense of “joy” and “optimism” to the presidential race that she felt at the convention. She’s also enjoyed various states’ delegates outfits — Beyoncé-inspired light-up cowboy hats from Washington’s delegates, for example.
Other outfits have grabbed headlines at the convention as well, from many women wearing the color white as a nod to the women’s suffrage movement to Ella Emhoff donning the Harris-Walz camo baseball hat. The hat, seemingly inspired by singer Chappell Roan’s “Midwest Princess” merch, became a viral sensation and raised more than $1 million when it went on sale earlier this month.
Democrats’ reclaiming camo of sorts and the American flag — many of which were waved on the convention floor — comes down to messaging, according to Bloch Rubin, the UChicago professor. One of the reasons Harris likely selected Walz is his appeal as a “regular guy,” someone who’s at home with people who like to wear camo, like hunters, Bloch Rubin said.
“I think this is a way of conveying in sartorial messages that this has a place within the Democratic Party,” she said. “The prevalence of American flags is consistent with the Harris campaign’s shift in messaging from Trump is a threat to democracy … to Democrats are about freedom. We believe in reproductive rights, and the American flag is the symbol of freedom, so why do we have to let Republicans have all the flag pins.”
Bloch Rubin said some political science scholarship suggests that party identity today is more emotive rather than focused on policy — essentially being a fan or part of a team. These identities can be quite powerful in how members engage socially, and, as with other fandoms, she said accessories can signal devotion, like the popular “Make America Great Again” hats. That merchandise generates revenue for a campaign or party is an added benefit, she said.
Sometimes subtle clothing choices also serve as a “wink wink” to the most devoted. Harris wearing a tan suit Monday evening — drawing comparisons to a decade ago when President Barack Obama angered conservative commentators for wearing one — felt like an inside joke, Bloch Rubin said. She also saw people wearing bright green at the convention, probably a nod to the “Kamala is brat” meme (a Charli XCX album reference).
Vendors outside the United Center and McCormick Place seemed to embrace these (at times, unsanctioned) slogans as well, selling T-shirts, pins, hats and other memorabilia out of carts. There were plenty of brat mentions and allusions to Trump’s felon status. Natasha Ledbetter, who drove from North Carolina for the convention, said some of her bestsellers were actually the simpler designs, namely Harris’ face with an American flag in the background.
While Taylor Swift didn’t make a rumored appearance at the convention, the friendship bracelets popular among her fans were all over the place. Amita Nandi, 7, sold dozens of her favorite Harris-inspired friendship bracelets this week at The Fig Tree gift shop in the West Loop and on her Instagram @mitasbracelets.
Using red, white and blue beads, one of the bracelets spelled out “DNC 2024” and another “DNC Chicago.” Another says “fell out of a coconut tree” with green and brown beads. For Christmas, Nandi got tickets to the upcoming Taylor Swift concert in Toronto, and is honing her bracelet-making skills in time for the show. She also sold bracelets at a lemonade stand over the summer.
Marta Delgado, Nandi’s mom, said even though there are too many beads lying throughout her house, she’s proud to see the creativity and thought she puts into the designs. When Harris started running for president, Nandi made about 150 bracelets for the DNC.
“It’s just a really fun thing to do,” Nandi said, adding “I feel like she’s (Harris) is better. She’s way nicer than Trump is.”
