The Michelin Guide ceremony in New York City on Monday saw Chicago add one Michelin-starred restaurant to its repertoire.
Uptown’s Cariño earned a single star within a year of opening. Stars are given out by anonymous inspectors to restaurants and are a coveted symbol of success for chefs, though the award is given to the full team. The guide characterizes Cariño as a Mexican and contemporary restaurant, where Chef Norman Fenton’s team offers a tasting menu of tacos with a modernist approach.
“The Inspectors were unanimously impressed with Chef Norman Fenton’s creations, which celebrate Mexican cuisine in an ambitious manner,” said Gwendal Poullennec, international director of Michelin Guides. “Our Inspectors were delighted by the bold and creative tasting menu in addition to the diligent and engaging service from the restaurant’s staff.”
The restaurant opened at 4662 N. Broadway in December 2023, in a location formerly occupied by Brass Heart, where Fenton was chef. Before that, the location was occupied by 42 Grams, which had a Michelin star.
“I feel really honored to bring a coveted star back to that address in Chicago and to that neighborhood specifically, a neighborhood that’s definitely off the beaten path,” Fenton said Monday night.
After Brass Heart’s closing, Fenton opened the restaurant with business partner Karen Young, following his experience as executive chef of Young’s restaurant Wild in Tulum, Mexico. The Michelin Guide also recognized Wild in 2024.
“Overall, I just feel relieved, and very happy for the team and how hard they worked and what efforts they put into it,” Fenton said.
Cariño is known for its tasting menu but also offers a chatty, late-night taco omakase, featuring open conversations from staff about ingredients and preparations. The guide recommended sitting at the counter for closer exposure to the staff’s work.
According to the news release, Michelin’s full Chicago selections this year included 35 types of cuisines; 20 restaurants were starred, 38 received Bib Gourmands and another 55 were recommended.
One star denotes high-quality cooking worth a stop. Restaurants maintaining their one-star status this year included Atelier, Boka, EL Ideas, Elske, Esmé, Galit, Indienne, Kasama, Mako, Next, Schwa, Sepia and Topolobampo. Temporis and Porto were no longer listed as they closed this year and Omakase Yume was not starred this year.
Two-star restaurants Oriole and Ever retained their status, with Moody Tongue dropping to one star.
The only restaurant that joined the coveted three-star list this year was Korean restaurant Jungsik in New York. Overall, 14 restaurants in the country have the three-star distinction, including Chicago’s Smyth, which received the three-star designation last year, and long-time Michelin Guide darling Alinea.
Though the star ranking is most well-known, the guide also provides a number of other awards, including Bib Gourmand, which recognizes well-priced, quality food and the Michelin Green Star for sustainability. Chicago’s Bib Gourmand list added River North’s Sifr this year, but removed several restaurants, including Etta and Avec. Logan Square’s Daisies, a Midwestern pasta restaurant, again received a Green Star for its sustainable practices.
Four special awards were also awarded in Chicago, New York City and Washington, D.C., the three cities recognized at Monday’s awards ceremony. In Chicago, Olivia Fadden of Beity in West Loop won the Michelin Exceptional Cocktails Award, Scott Stroemer of Galit in Lincoln Park won the Michelin Sommelier Award, Tim Flores and Genie Kwon of Kasama in East Ukranian Village won the Michelin Outstanding Service Award and Josh Mummert of Kumiko in West Loop won the Michelin Young Chef Award.
The Michelin Guide’s new entry for Cariño reads:
“In a cozy corner of Uptown where the train rumbles overhead, Chef Norman Fenton mines his history and his travels to celebrate Mexican cuisine in a distinct, ambitious manner. He lists out ingredients like an auctioneer, and his pace is energetic. Quickly, the courses compound: A stunning huitlacoche ravioli with fried corn silk, then a queso truffle quesadilla, and at some point, a lamb tartare tostada seasoned in the style of al pastor. Indeed, this tasting menu features boldness and creativity in spades, starting with “chips and salsa” in the form of salsa verde jelly and a tortilla crumble. The best seats are at the counter, which offer an up-close view of this small team, all of whom work diligently and engage with guests freely.”
When asked what’s next for him, Fenton said “We gotta go to work on Wednesday. Service!”
Review: Cariño blasts beautiful culinary love ballads from Chicago to Mexico
