On a frosty January morning, I set off in a ride-share toward O’Hare International Airport, through the bumper-to-bumper traffic that is Interstate Highway 90 at rush hour.
Fast forward a few hours: I landed at Cyril E. King Airport in St. Thomas, greeted by an open-air airport and an aggressively cheerful sun.
As I stepped onto the tarmac, I instantly felt like a human popsicle melting into a puddle of bewilderment. The sudden onslaught of warmth and sunshine felt almost awkward, yet strangely delightful.
By lunchtime, I had fully embraced the island mindset. Rum Swizzle in hand, I kicked back poolside, toasting the joy of travel.
Whether you’re looking for adventure, relaxation or simply a short respite from winter, the U.S. Virgin Islands — St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix — have you covered.
Located in the Caribbean Sea east of Puerto Rico, the islands boast year-round tropical weather, pristine white sand beaches and turquoise waters.
And this tropical paradise is easy to access.
No passport required
United Airlines and American Airlines offer daily direct flights from O’Hare to St. Thomas. Hop on a morning flight in Chicago and plan on basking in the sun and sipping a Bushwacker — the indulgent cocktail invented on the island in 1975, a blend of coconut cream, coffee liqueurs and rum — on the beach by afternoon.
And the best part? You don’t even need a passport. As a U.S. territory, traveling to the Virgin Islands is like traveling to another state; just pack your bags and prepare for paradise.
Initially inhabited by the Ciboney, Arawak and Carib peoples, the islands were later claimed by European powers before being sold to the United States in 1917 by Denmmark.
Three main islands boast a unique charm and geography. St. Thomas is renowned for its rugged terrain, picturesque harbors and lively coral reefs. St. John, the smallest of the three at approximately 20 square miles, is known for its unspoiled beauty as two-thirds of the island is protected as the Virgin Islands National Park. The largest island, St. Croix, features diverse natural landscapes ranging from rolling hills to flatlands while its charming towns, Christiansted and Frederiksted, are dotted with colorful, Danish colonial architecture.
Island-style relaxation
When Scott and Nikki Schletz’s last child flew the nest, they started a new chapter of their own. They traded their Chicago home for a live-in Leopard 44 sailing catamaran docked in Long Bay, St. Thomas, and traded their jobs in emergency medicine and education for a life on the high seas. Their new venture, Sol Seeker, offers personalized sailing charters.
“Life is short and unpredictable,” said Nikki Schletz. “My husband loves me enough to take a leap and came up with the crazy idea to run charters and live on a boat. Once we decided, we were all in. Island life is definitely different. We spend most of our time outdoors enjoying nature: scuba diving, snorkeling, paddle boarding, kayaking or hiking. Every day is an adventure on the islands.”
“We had a bunch of doctors and surgeons onboard last week,” Schletz said. “One napped for the first time he can remember in a very long time. The others were able to escape and relax completely. A true vacation helps you to ‘vacate’ your everyday life, if only for a few days. The charm of the islands lies not just in their beauty, but in their ability to effortlessly soothe the mind and body, allowing visitors to fully recharge.”
Dive into paradise
The crystal clear waters surrounding the islands support a complex system of bustling coral reefs, making it one of the world’s top destinations for underwater and on-the-water adventures.
Swim, snorkel or kayak Brewers Bay Beach in St. Thomas and see if you can spot the sea turtles that call this calm bay home. Or build sandcastles in the sugary sand of the half-mile-long Magens Bay Beach, one of the most family-friendly beaches in the U.S. Virgin Islands, thanks to on-duty lifeguards, changing and shower facilities, and plentiful picnic tables.
Swim alongside manta rays at Sandy Point National Wildlife Refuge in St. Croix or explore the Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve at night aboard a kayak. The movement of your paddle through the water causes the bay’s glowing, bioluminescent organisms to twirl and spin like underwater stars.
Over 40% of Virgin Islands National Park in St. John is underwater. Scuba divers and snorkelers are invited to set off on an underwater “hike” along the world’s first marked underwater trail, the Coral Reef Underwater Park Trail, located just off the shoreline in picturesque Trunk Bay. The easy-to-access trail is marked with underwater plaques that direct you where to snorkel and also include fun facts on the sea turtles, eagle rays, parrotfish, barracuda and other fascinating marine creatures that call the bay home.
Snorkel the national park’s Cinnamon Bay to see the underwater fish holding pen — likely made by the Taino indigenous peoples or their ancestors — as well as a submerged historic village and even a sunken plane from the 1940s. The staff at the front desk of Cinnamon Bay Campground can point you in the right direction and provide maps for underwater and land hikes.
Cultural treasures
With their strategic location east of Puerto Rico, the U.S. Virgin Islands have historically been a melting pot of civilizations, contributing to their vibrant, multicultural ambiance today.
The Three Queens statue in Charlotte Amalie is in a historic park commemorating enslaved peoples’ emancipation and three courageous local women, leaders of the 1878 Fireburn labor riot, Queen Mary, Queen Agnes and Queen Mathilda, who led the insurrection against the Danish government, demanding better working and living conditions for agricultural laborers.
Also in Charlotte Amalie, the Hebrew Congregation of St. Thomas is one of the oldest synagogues in continuous use in the Western Hemisphere. Built in 1833, it features mahogany pews, a domed ceiling and a sand-covered floor that’s part of the Sephardic Jewish tradition of muffling footsteps during secret worship.
The 12-acre Estate Whim Museum on St. Croix was once a working sugar plantation. Today, it’s a living museum where visitors can meet St. Croix’s tradition bearers as they share local music, food and handcraft traditions.
The colonial-era Peace Hill Windmill in St. John offers sweeping views of Hawksnest Bay to the west and Denis Bay and Trunk Bay to the east. Once a working windmill used for sugar production at the former Denis Bay Plantation, today, the site hosts community meditation gatherings every Sunday at sunset.
Getting around
Rental cars are popular for those who want the freedom to explore at their own pace, especially on larger islands like St. Croix and St. Thomas. Taxis are widely available and can easily be hailed on the street or arranged through hotels and restaurants. But for a true island experience, hop on the “safari” buses, open-air vehicles that provide an affordable way to travel along main routes.
The islands are all connected by frequent ferry service, making inter-island travel seamless, but you can also opt for a seaplane, perhaps the coolest way to island hop.
Where to stay
The U.S. Virgin Islands offer a variety of accommodations. For those seeking luxury, there’s the Ritz-Carlton St. Thomas and the Westin Beach Resort and Spa at Frenchman’s Reef. Mid-range options such as the eco-friendly Green Iguana Hotel or the family-friendly Bolongo Bay Beach Resort, both in St. Thomas, offer value. Plentiful Airbnb rentals on the islands include every type of accommodation under the Caribbean sun, from charming beachfront cottages to luxury villas. At Cinnamon Bay Campground, the only campsite situated within the U.S. Virgin Islands National Park, visitors can experience overnight camping from bare sites to eco-tents with direct access to the beautiful beach.
Amy Bizzarri is a freelancer.
