Try this take on latkes for Passover

A two-step technique for grating potatoes yields latkes that are crispy around the edges but still creamy in the center, with serious potato flavor.

Thick and Creamy Potato Latkes

Makes approximately 14 3-inch pancakes

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes or russet potatoes, peeled

1 medium yellow onion peeled and cut into eighths

1 large egg

4 medium scallions white and green parts, minced

3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves

2 tablespoons matzo meal (optional)

1 1/2 teaspoons table salt

Ground black pepper

1 cup vegetable oil, for frying

1. Grate potatoes in a food processor fitted with a coarse shredding blade. Place half the potatoes in a fine mesh sieve set over a medium bowl and reserve.

2. Fit food processor with steel blade, add onions, and pulse with remaining potatoes until all pieces measure roughly 1/8 inch and look coarsely chopped, 5 to 6 one-second pulses. Mix with reserved potato shreds in the sieve and press against sieve to drain as much liquid as possible into a bowl below. Let potato liquid stand until starch settles to bottom, about one minute. Pour off liquid, leaving starch in the bowl. Beat egg, then potato mixture and remaining ingredients (except oil), into starch.

3. Meanwhile, heat 1/4-inch depth of oil in a 12-inch skillet or saute pan over medium-high heat until shimmering but not smoking. Working one at a time, place 1/4 cup potato mixture, squeezed of excess liquid and pressed into a 1/2-inch thick disc, in oil. Press gently with a nonstick spatula; repeat until five latkes are in the pan.

4. Maintaining heat so fat bubbles around latke edges, fry until golden brown on bottom and. edges, about 3 minutes. Turn with spatula and continue frying until golden brown all over, about 3 minutes more. Drain on a triple thickness of paper towels set on a wire rack over a jelly roll pan. Repeat with remaining potato mixture, returning oil to temperature between each batch and replacing oil after every second batch.

5. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.

Recipe notes

Matzo meal is a traditional binder, though we found that the pancake’s texture does not suffer without it.

Cooled latkes can be covered loosely with plastic wrap, held at room temperature for 4 hours, transferred to a heated cookie sheet and baked in a 375-degree oven, until crisp and hot, about 5 minutes per side. Or, they can be frozen on a cookie sheet, transferred to a zipper-lock freezer bag, frozen, and reheated in a 375-degree oven until crisp and hot, about 8 minutes per side.

(For 25 years, home cooks have relied on America’s Test Kitchen for rigorously tested recipes developed by professional test cooks and vetted by 60,000 at-home recipe testers. The family of brands — which includes Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country — offers reliable recipes for cooks of all skill levels. See more online at www.americastestkitchen.com/TCA.)

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